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"If all the ice in Alaska would melt, then Texas would be
bigger than Alaska." Strange as it may seem, I believed that for
the first 30 years of my life. Needless to say, I got laughed at when
I made the mistake of saying that during my first visit to Alaska in
1985.
Little did I know at that time that only a few months later, I
would marry a Sourdough and move to Alaska. Not since the days of the
Gold Rush has there been such a Cheechako as I was. I hadn't been
aware that anybody in the United States still had an outhouse for
daily use. I learned differently; for over two years, I made several
trips daily to our "room in a path."
Let me introduce myself, I'm Virginia Lane Bolzern, Cheechako,
married to Mark Bolzern, Sourdough. As Alaskans jokingly say, "A
`sourdough' is someone who is soured on Alaska and doesn't have
enough dough to leave." In reality, however, it means someone
who has been an Alaska resident for over 25 years.
The term sourdough originated during the gold rush (1880-1906.
During the gold rush when it was not yet possible to purchase yeast,
to make bread, Alaskans would culture sour dough. However, since the
cabins were wood, heated in the winter and the men often left for
long periods to go hunting, trapping, or to town, the sourdough
cultures would not survive the cold. So the men would keep little
bits of these cultures that they could use to start their dough when
the made bread, in the inside breast pockets of the parkas that they
wore. As a result, they became known as they smelled--as sourdough.
Mark's family first came to Alaska in 1962 via California after
immigrating from Switzerland the previous year. Since more than 25
years have passes, Mark is a Sourdough. Besides, he loves
Alaska--attitude alone will make him one if anything will.
On the other hand, I was a die-hard Texan. My father's family came
to Texas after the Civil War, coming from both the North and the
South. My mother also had ancestors in that war but one of her
grandfather's came from Sweden about the time Daddy's family arrived
in Texas. Since I'm was sort of a "city girl" and had never
before been to Alaska, I was certainly qualified to be a Cheechako.
This story started in October 1985. My parents and I traveled to
Anchorage, Alaska to attend a church conference. I met Mark upon our
arrival. His self-appointed duty was to help new arrivals with their
luggage. He offered to help my parents. While we were waiting for
them to register, I introduced myself. As it turned out, I had known
both his younger brother and another close friend at college a few
years before. A new friendship was born! In his entire career as a
"bellhop", Mark only took one tip--me!
Mark was my introduction to Alaska. The next evening after an
afternoon meeting, Mark asked me for a date. I immediately reminded
him I was with my parents. He said "Bring them along." That
really impressed me that he would be willing the take "chaperons"
along on a date. My parents opted for a quiet meal at the Hotel and
an early bedtime.
So Mark and I set off to see the sights. Anchorage was founded
about the turn of the century, incorporated in 1915. He took me to
Gwennie's, an old-time Alaska restaurant. It is decorated as an old
fashioned roadhouse. Mark boasted of the portions provided by the
kitchen. We started off with two Ski Lifts, a drink made with hot
chocolate laced with Peppermint Schnapps. Starting a tradition we
have continued, Mark and I split the other items. We had a barbecue
sandwich, french fries, and a salad. This was plenty so we forewent a
dessert.
After dinner, Mark drove me around Anchorage, pointing out things
to see. Exciting things like the corner where Mark had a motorcycle
accident, the brick fence the people built because they got tired of
people landing in their yard after missing the curve, the city sewer
station (yes, they do have one!), Flat Top mountain, and the city
lights.
That was the start to our relationship. We spent most of the next
week together. Mark still claims he was hoping the match me up with
his roommate. Mark would arrange a time when he could get Jerry and
me together; then Jerry would fall ill. So Mark spent the time with
me to keep the other fellows away. This may be, but before the week
was out, Mark and I knew we had something going. However, let's not
get ahead of the story.
The following morning after our date, shortly before our meeting
was to start, I located my seat which was beside a family named
Kreuger. They were a very pleasant-looking older couple. I introduced
myself to them. Later that day, Mr. Kreuger and I happened to be
talking when Mark came by. Mr. Kreuger grabbed Mark by the arm and
said he had somebody he wanted Mark to meet, and proceeded to
introduce us. We said we knew each other. Then he made a remark about
my being single so we could date each other. Thereupon we admitted we
had already been out.
The following day we ran into each other at a singles' breakfast.
Mark said "Good morning, Gorgeous!" I though that was
pretty presumptuous but pretended not to notice. Later we ended up
sitting together when the group went to the Alaska Experience
Theatre. Enthusiasts claim it to be an excellent show and a great way
to learn about Alaska. The audience sits on bleacher type seats
facing a screen that is the size of the whole wall. It was once said
that only those with strong hearts should watch the film. The film is
enthralling with scenes of Alaska and her peoples. However,the scenes
are constantly moving. I held my stomach with my eyes closed most of
the time. I get dizzy when watching films with lots of motion on the
screen. Even the music was so graphic as to make me sick. If you are
the type (like I am) that feels queasy while watching ski films, I do
not recommend this Alaska experience. This film was shot out of an
airplane and consists of a tour around Alaska. Mark punched me to
open my eyes just as a cliff dropped away from the plane. I would
have beaned him except I was too busy trying not to heave my lunch
into his lap. Mark didn't realize how un-nice it is to do something
like that. I was really suffering. Even the music was so graphic as
to make me sick; it was so full of motion that I could picture what I
wasn't seeing.
Somehow I managed to survive that part of the afternoon without
having to throw up or leave the room. After the film, Mark treated me
to a fruit cup at The Pantry, the 24 hour restaurant at the Captain
Cook. Among other things we talked about, we talked about the other
people we sort of liked. We decided that as long as were weren't
there with anyone and no definite commitments to our friends at home,
we could enjoy each other's company with no strings attached. It was
nice to be able to relax with someone with whom we had things in
common. Then we parted company and met again later at another
singles' activity. I visited with a number of the young men, by Mark
insisted on walking me back to my room when I was ready to leave. At
that time he recruited me to participate in a hike he was organizing
for the following afternoon.
An afternoon stroll up a mountain isn't exactly my cup of tea. I
attempted it solely for the chance to be with my new friend. Besides,
I had been promised a nice view of Anchorage. Mark normally would
have been among the leaders up the mountain. This time he hung back
with me, his roommate, and another girl who was a friend of my
sister. We were going so slowly that we never made it to the top
before out time was up. We were having too good a time joking and
telling stories to go very fast. However, we were slightly chagrined
when Graydon Drown, who had arrived late, went cruising by and made
it to the top and reached the bottom again about the same time we
did.
Embarrassment waited for me on Thursday morning. Once again I was
sitting next to Mr. and Mrs. kreuger. When Mark and I parted at my
row, Mr. Kreuger stood up and hollered at Mark who had made it to the
front row by this time. He plainly told Mark there was an empty seat
next to mine. Mark waved at him and continued to his seat. So he
yelled even louder that the seat next to me was empty and Mark was
supposed to sit in it. Mark decided to be obedient; sitting next to
me was a fate much better than death. Besides, it didn't look like
peace would reign up until Mark did come sit by me. Later Mr. Kreuger
asked us to hold our hands out in front of us. We were surprised that
our hands are very similarly shaped. That cinched it for Mr. K. He
knew then that we were destined to be married and made no bones about
it. He now takes credit for getting us together.
I've always had this theory that couples should look alike--at
least look as if they belonged together. Years ago I had a crush on a
young man. One day we were at a restaurant and saw our reflections in
a mirror. It just didn't compute! Despite both having brown hair, we
didn't look like we went together at all. Thereafter, any time I was
out with a fellow, I tried to maneuver us in front of a mirror,
window, or something reflective.
It wasn't very hard to get Mark in front of a mirror. The drain
stopper on the bathtub in my hotel room didn't close up right. Mark
said he would take a look at it. Bathrooms have big mirrors. I was
quite impressed that he looked real well with me. I still think that!
ALASKA: THE WILD, WILD WEST
My first experience with the real Alaska was when Mark invited me
to a dinner at his neighbor's igloo (igloo means home). Noel Matteson
is a unique man who embodies the spirit of Alaska. He's one of the
most hospitable people I've ever met.
Noel lives in Birchwood, about 30 miles north of Anchorage. This
part of Birchwood still rather undeveloped. It's a place where people
can still build their own home on some real acreage without having to
fight city hall.
Mark tried to give me some idea of what to expect. However, I had
to see it to believe it! The roads into the housing area were gravel.
We turned off the pavement by a "small plane airport" after
crossing railroad tracks. The road curved like a snake several times.
Then we turned at the landmark I'd been told to look for--a big billy
goat and his opponent, a tire on a rope. The lane into which we
turned (at the goat) widened into what had to be the parking area as
the road ended at this point. I looked around for the house but none
was in sight.
Then Mark informed me we had some walking to do. We climbed an
embankment and over the railroad tracks. As we proceeded down a
footpath through the trees for about a city block, I still wondered
where the house was. Parked alongside the path was a large, green
truck. Mark modestly admitted this monstrosity to be his. I couldn't
imagine what use he would have for a vehicle like that. Only too soon
would I find out!
Just beyond the truck was Noel's house. It didn't look like any
house I'd ever seen.
By the gate into Noel's property was a rural mailbox with the flag
up. I wondered if the postman actually came to deliver mail. Mark
responded "That flag has been up for several years, so I don't
think so." Beyond the mailbox was the house.
Mark pointed out the outhouse on the way to the house. Along with
an anecdote about the time someone attached a bell to a rope
alongside a sign saying "Pull to flush." Unsuspecting city
people were usually gullible enough to do just that. Fortunately,
nobody had any tricks up their sleeves the evening I was there.
As we entered the door, to the left was a large room 24x24 ft.
with a fairly low ceiling. The room had a number of tables with
crystal place settings. As it turned out, he was expecting about
20-30 people for dinner. In front of me was the kitchen. In it was
the heating stove made out of a 55 gallon drum. To the right was
another room about 18x18 ft. with couches, chairs, etc.
Noel lives on 2 1/2 acres with two nieces and a nephew. The house
is a masterpiece. Homemade, it is constructed of logs, boards, sheet
metal, glass, etc. Outside, it looks like a Salvation Army reject.
But inside, it is as cozy as any new bride could hope for.
As the evening progressed, someone asked Mark about his house. As
he had promised to take me to see it, we decided to take a "field
trip" to Bolzern Manor. What an adventure! As mentioned before,
his big green crew cab 1 ton truck was sitting in the unused driveway
across from Noel's. Our group piled into the truck. The short drive
down the path to Mark's is one I'll never forget. To my untrained
eyes, the path seemed hardly wide enough to allow passage. We jounced
and bounced down the path. In front of us a tree loomed, seeming to
form a dead end. Just as I thought we were sure to crash, Mark jerked
the wheel and drove around the tree. Sure enough, the path continued
until ending in front of a two story house.
My first impression of Mark's house is a little vague. It was so
dark and I was only there for a few minutes. If I had known that I
would be coming there to live, I would have looked a little more
carefully. I do remember thinking there weren't very many windows.
Mark wished to leave the truck at his house so we walked back to
Noel's house.
While waiting for dinner, I had another surprise. Noel invited me
to see the rest of the house. First we went outside and around the
house, up some steps into a porch-like room. We climbed a ladder onto
the roof. Then we went inside a room which Noel said was to be his
bedroom when it was finished. After leaving there, we climbed a very
steep and narrow staircase. At the top we walked upon 2x4s that were
sticking out of the roof. I kept walking while looking for a
destination. Finally I asked Noel where we were going. He replied,
"This is where our deck will be--I thought you'd like to see the
view." If I hadn't been so scared, I might have enjoyed it a
little more.
By that time, dinner was ready. I was glad to be back on the
ground. Noel served 24 people that night using crystal dishes. it was
a delicious turkey dinner. I also believe spaghetti was an entree
alternative.
Upon our departure Noel presented the ladies with a piece of
crystal. Mine, a candy dish, has a place of honor on our mantle. That
night was a wonderful example of Alaskan hospitality. Nowhere else
have I ever been made feel as welcome.
The next few days were slightly blah in comparison to the exciting
evening at Noel's. The time was drawing near that my parents and I
would head back to Texas. By this time Mark and I began to
acknowledge that something was happening between us.
The end of our week of budding romance was an evening out at
Vittles. This restaurant has since closed. The down-home atmosphere
was a perfect ending to the week. We had plenty of food. This time my
parents and two of Mark's friends accompanied us. We were treated
royally. Graydon acted as chauffeur in his new car and Jerry insisted
on paying. Then we duplicated our sightseeing tour of Anchorage for
the benefit of my parents. A dusting of snow coming down was exciting
to me. I didn't see much snow in the part of Texas where I lived.
All good times eventually come to an end. Mark and I had to decide
whether or not our relationship was headed for anything more
permanent. It certainly had been a fun week! But was that enough to
base a relationship on? Especially since we lived miles and miles
apart?
We made the decision that we would communicate with each other.
Mark mentioned that he would talk to his minister about the
situation. And with that, we kind of left it hanging.
My parents and I left Anchorage on a morning flight. Most flights
leave Anchorage in the middle of the night. The reason for this is
that most flights go toward the East. If one waits until daytime to
leave, it is late in the day before arrival at the destination. Mark
drove us to the airport to catch our 8 a.m. flight. We arrived at the
DFW airport about 6 p.m. It was a tired trio by the time we'd driven
the back to my home near Tyler.
When I'd left Alaska, I wasn't sure what turn my romance would
take. I was determined not to be the first one to write. At age 30, I
didn't want to look desperate. But a short week later, just as I'd
given up and written a letter, I received a bouquet of roses. Mark
didn't sign the card; the message was "Just because." I
thought this pretty romantic.
Needless to say, my flowers were the sensation of the office. At
that point I wasn't ready to reveal Mark's existence. I didn't want
to look stupid in case nothing happened. Since he didn't sign the
card, I could honestly say I had a secret admirer. Mark and I began a
series of letters and telephone calls.
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